The Wild Heart of British Columbia’s Cariboo
WORLD FOOTPRINTS Feb. 25, 2025
By Heide Brandes
Fresh lynx tracks weave through deep powder near Quesnel Lake in British Columbia’s Cariboo Mountains. At minus 18 degrees Celsius, the morning air crystallizes our breath as Ryan, our EcoTours BC guide, motions us to pause.
Though the elusive lynx remains hidden, its story is written in the snow. Here, it stalked a snowshoe hare. There, it rested beneath a sheltering spruce. Its tracks trace a single line across the surface of a frozen river. The vast wilderness stretches before us, an untamed landscape where mountain peaks disappear into low clouds and ancient forests harbor secrets beneath 27 feet of annual snowfall.
Winter Reveals a Different Side of the Cariboo
Our snowshoes crunch rhythmically as we move through terrain that would be impossible to navigate without them. Each step reveals another chapter in the winter wildlife story. While most visitors choose EcoTours BC’s popular three-day summer wilderness hikes, winter reveals a different side of the Cariboo.
“In summer, people come for bears and moose,” said Peggy Zorn, who founded EcoTours BC with her husband Gary. “But winter shows us the secret life of the forest. The hunters and the hunted are the survivors who thrive in extreme conditions. Their tracks are easier to see, and the wolves are active.”
This wild corner of British Columbia, long known for its ranching heritage and gold rush history, is rapidly emerging as a year-round destination. Wilderness adventure meets Western tradition here. The area, born from gold rush dreamers and turned into British Columbia’s ranching center, sits tucked between the coast and the Cariboo Mountains. The location creates a place where cultural and contemporary lifestyles exist harmoniously.
Visitors now flock to the area for the Cariboo Gold Rush Trail, to discover the Chilcotin, explore the Great Bear Rainforest or relax along the Land of Hidden Waters. While this region offers some of BC’s most scenic and ecologically unique landscapes, it’s also famous for signature experiences, natural wonders, provincial parks, communities and characters that make the Cariboos unlike any other place.
Ice Fishing and Cowboy Culture
The transformation is evident along British Columbia’s famous “Fishing Highway” (Highway 24), where guide Mark Roseboom of Lone Butte Fishing Adventures introduces visitors to winter angling’s mysterious prize: the burbot, the only freshwater member of the cod family. Inside a heated tent on frozen Bridge Lake, underwater lights illuminate crystal-clear depths while the sun begins to set in copper colors over the frozen surface.
“Burbot are weird in just about every way,” Mark said as we jigged our lines in the green-tinted void. “They spawn in winter under the ice, they’re most active at night, and their meat tastes like lobster.”
The region’s evolution becomes even more clear at the Museum of the Cariboo Chilcotin in Williams Lake, where exhibits showcase the area’s transition from Indigenous territory to gold rush boomtown to ranching heartland. The museum houses the BC Cowboy Hall of Fame, telling stories of pioneering ranches that have operated on the same land for over a century, as well as the area’s Indigenous history, rodeo history and gold rush beginnings.
“Western culture is huge here,” said Maryclaire Snowball, Destination Experience manager for the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Tourism Association, “but we’re seeing more people discover what winter can offer.”
These winter offerings include Bull Mountain’s pristine cross-country ski trails, where instructor Denise patiently teaches us the diagonal stride and herringbone technique for climbing hills. The lodge’s picture windows and hot chocolate provide welcome warmth after tackling snow-laden slopes, while seasoned skiers glide past on trails that weave through snow-draped forests.
A Story of Resilience
The town itself tells a story of resilience, having evolved from a 1930s company town of 4,000 to a vibrant arts community where gold rush history meets contemporary culture.
“The mail run connects our past with modern adventure,” said Sarah Smith, one of the organizers, as mushers prepare their teams in the pre-dawn light.
The dogs’ excited howls nearly drown out the traditional swearing-in ceremony where mushers become official mail carriers, continuing a tradition from the 1860s. Special artist-designed envelopes will carry mail to destinations worldwide after reaching historic Barkerville, where interpreter Stewart Cawood brings the gold rush era to life amid 107 original buildings.
“Williams Creek is the number one gold-producing creek for lineal foot in the entire world,” he said, standing beside the reconstructed Barker shaft house. “Three and a half tons of gold came out of this two-and-a-half-mile stretch.”
His stories paint pictures of a time when thousands sought fortune in these hills, their legacy preserved in Barkerville’s authentically restored streets and buildings.
As darkness falls, the Wells Hotel offers liquid warmth from one of Western Canada’s largest collections of single-malt Scotch. Over 300 varieties provide a fitting end to days filled with winter exploration.
“From guest ranches to rodeos, from wildlife viewing to historic sites, there’s something for everyone who wants to connect with this landscape,” said Amy Thacker, CEO of Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Tourism.
Though we never glimpsed that lynx near Quesnel Lake, its presence embodied the Cariboo’s wild spirit. Like the gold rush prospectors and ranching pioneers before us, today’s visitors discover their own treasures in this untamed landscape. Some are obvious, others as elusive as a ghost cat’s tracks in fresh snow.
Travel Tips
Dress in layers and be prepared for extreme cold (temperatures can drop to -30°C)
Book activities and accommodations in advance, especially for winter adventures
Consider hiring local guides for activities like ice fishing and wildlife viewing
Allow time for spontaneous discoveries along the Gold Rush Trail
Try local specialties like burbot (called “poor man’s lobster”) and craft beers
